
There are few things in the world that get my mouth watering than
Kim chi. I make large batches of it myself, as seen by this photo of my most recent batch which is sitting in the refrigerator. I made 10 lbs, which was two cabbages, and this should last about four to six months. How did a white boy originally from Queens and now living in Oregon come to making his own Kim chi? A tale I will tell and follow up with my own personal recipe.
Back in 1994 my wife and I were living in downtown Flushing. At the time there was a growing Korean population as well as a good number of restaurants opening up. One night we went to one near the Queens Botanical Garden, can't remember their name, but it was a fancy restaurant. They had metal chopsticks! Try and pick up rice with those, it takes some practice. I ordered something that I had never ate before,
Yukhui, which is a raw meat dish served with a raw egg. Before you get sick I'm telling you it is really good.
When the dinner was served the waiter placed out a bunch of small bowls with various foods in them. I found out years later this is known as
banchan which is standard in Korean cooking. Looking at the bowls I saw items like seaweed salad and other interesting items and one bowl that had a green and white thing in it covered in red sauce. I asked what is that, I was told that it is Kim chi. I asked what is Kim chi and was told that it is a spicy pickled cabbage and that I should try it. I did and I fell in love.
Kim chi is a staple in the Korean diet, like the way potatoes are in our diet. I started to go to different Korean restaurants in my neighborhood, the metal chopstick place was expensive after all, and saw that it was everywhere. One night after work I stopped into a Korean supermarket on Roosevelt Avenue in Flushing and bought a five pound jar of Kim chi for ten dollars. I started to eat it on a regular basis. I finished that jar and proudly turned it into a flour jar to reuse it, yes I've been an environmental geek that long, sadly even longer. I did buy another jar that was only five dollars thinking that I got a great discount only to realize that when I got it home that it was very old and was way too fermented to eat plain. I now know what to do with Kim chi like that, more on that later.
Shortly after I moved to Oregon and would pick up Kim chi when I could, usually at
Uwajimaya over in Beaverton or at the supermarket. A 16 oz jar would cost almost five dollars, I thought there has to be a better way. And when I say better way I mean cheaper. I feel comfort with cookbooks, so I went out and bought one.
This one to be exact. I started to read it and learn as much as I could since I am scared to try something the first time but can't wait to try something the second time.
The book explained about the red pepper used in Korean cooking, it is similar to the Mexican Cayenne pepper. They were planted by Portuguese missionaries in the early 1600's all over Korea and it ended up replacing the Schezuan pepper. Kim chi has been around for a long time, thousands of years it's estimated. Cabbage is the most common type but it can be made with a number of other vegetables. One for example is to use Korean radish which is very similar to daikon radish.
I found a recipe for
Kim chi radish which is very simple. You cube up radish, julienne a head of garlic, ginger, green onions, fish sauce or salted shrimp, sugar and lots of red pepper. Put it in a jar, keep it out for 24 hours, then refrigerate and eat. It was easier than I though it could be. The radish shrank in the jar and after awhile I started to notice that the sauce got thicker. I am starting to realize that it might be the sugar that is creating the thickening. I was now ready to make a try with cabbage. I'll post the recipe first and how I learned to make Kim chi.
Kim chi (my version)
Napa Cabbage 2 to 3 lbs
Korean Radish (can use daikon) 1 lb
Bunch of Green Onions (usually 5 to 6)
7 to 8 Garlic Cloves
1" Finger of Ginger
Carrot
1 Tbs Salted Shrimp Fry (can use Fish Sauce)
1 to 2 cups Red Pepper (powder and flakes)
Kosher Salt
Hot Water
First split the cabbage in half from the top to the base. Put about a table spoon of kosher salt on each half, get it between each layer of leaves. Place the cabbage face down and allow it to drain for at least 3 hours. Wipe off the salt and squeeze out as much water as you can. Cut a few round cuts off the radish, enough to put two to three in the bottom of each jar. Take the remainder of the radish and julienne into small strips. Do this with the garlic, ginger and carrot. Cut the bottoms of the green onions, the white portion, thinly and the green tops about a half inch to one inch long. Combine into a bowl and add salted shrimp fry, the red pepper and enough hot water to make it into a paste. Take mixture and put some between each layer of cabbage, it may be easier to cut it smaller first. Place into mason jars, close them and let sit unrefrigerated for 24 hours, then refrigerate for at least one week. The jars don't need to be sealed like you would in canning, just cleaned out first. You are trying to get the cabbage to ferment so it doesn't have to be sealed too tightly.
I didn't list sugar since I don't eat much of it and I'm not sure if it is the "secret" ingredient that I'm missing. My Kim chi doesn't get very thick but I have time to learn. Years ago I was installing a T1 for a local company in Beaverton that produces Kim chi. I told the women working there that I make it myself, she was amazed. She was really shocked to find out that I make radish as well. She told me that she has never met a white guy who made his own Kim chi. I asked about how to make the sauce thick, she told me that the owner, whose recipe they were using, spent many years learning how to do that. Nothing more, no secret spilled.
The first time I was excited and painfully waited for a week. It tasted great, even if it didn't taste like what you got in a restaurant or at the store, I made it myself. At some point later I was diagnosed with high cholesterol meaning I would need to change my diet. Since Kim chi doesn't have any cholesterol and I needed to find breakfasts that had little to no cholesterol, I figured out how to make Kim chi pancakes. Buying a ready made pancake mix for scallion pancakes, and after doing the
stupid metric conversion I was able to make a nice hearty breakfast, served with low sodium soy sauce and white vinegar.
I started to realize that after a few months that the Kim chi keeps fermenting. Facing the problem I had when living in New York, I read up on what to do. It turns out that when Kim chi gets to that point it's used in soups, stews and cooked with pork. The acids help break down the pork and make it much more favorable and tender. So every few weeks I make a pot of Kim chi tofu stew with fish balls and what ever else is laying around and toss in some Udon noodles.
The main reason for this post, besides putting up another of my favorite recipes, is to show that being sustainable in my view is to be in control of your food source. And it's very economical. The photo taken above cost me about 12 dollars to make. If I bought that in a store it would cost at least 75 dollars or more. Ultimately I want to be able to grow as many as the ingredients as possible. By the time for the next batch I should be able to use my own garlic. If I start growing cabbage, radishes, green onions, carrots, ginger well not sure if I can grow ginger, but to make a home made batch from home made ingredients! That is one way to reduce my carbon footprint. One tasty pepper covered leaf at a time.